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This is an important factor that will be the reason why you get pictures or get NO pictures at all; you have to understand the principal and setting a trail camera to get a good result – it is all about good angles!

Look carefully at this photo of my camera, this camera has a standard height (38cm) from the ground to the WHITE DISC more commonly known as the (Movement sensor) and if you look carefully it is at a very slight angle towards the ground. The camera is NOT straight. The belt and string are just the extras used to fix it to a tree if needed

KNEE HEIGHT is generally a good height.

Placing the camera on the ground – you must first make sure the ground that you are placing it on is level, if it isn’t ( a very good chance) then you must work out that after you have mounted it on a tripod or a tree you must work out how accurately you can make the camera appear to be looking STRAIGHT ahead, and then, only then work out the slight angle you need to get it to be directed towards the earth.

Now. This is another sticky subject, some cameras like high settings on a tree looking down 45 degrees or more or less, some prefer a lower setting and some are easy and work any old way.

YOU MUST TRY and find out what your camera likes, by setting it in the bush, it will take a few attempts till you master it!

Carry soft material in your bag so if you set a camera you can stuff in extra thicknesses behind the camera and the tree if needed for a better angle etc.


ALSO, carry a small hammer and long nails in your camera bag, IN CASE you can mount the camera on a wooden pole that is next to a gate etc, the nails can be knocked in to act as a stopper so the camera don’t slide down the pole after the belt is tightened, the nails can also help on a tree mount in some way.

The one camera I have is a 140 Moultrie camera, it likes this 38cm setting off the ground, and at 20m the laser when set hits the ground. I am so used to the camera now I can set it without the laser. As long as your angle is ok its fine and will fire. Just practise and all will be well.

REMEMBER THIS; When you have set your camera up, before you leave the spot your set it at, put it on the timer, walk away to about 8 m and when its ready to take a photo move a little so it takes a picture ( bend down low to animal height) and if it fires you know the camera is set correctly and everything is ready for a day and night of action. This way you can leave the area knowing it is working and set correctly

Look at the picture below, the same trail camera with my camo net cover applied.

You can clearly see the white disc (motion sensor behind it) and the camera shutter 4 inches higher. The disc is 38cm off the ground.


This is an example; I use a camera tripod if I can’t get a tree or pole etc.

When you first start filming with a trail cam it will be easy or hard to find what your specific camera likes, but when you find it’s secret – boy it is a bunch of fun!

Generally in my opinion if you get a camera to fire at 12m at night that is ample, perfect - and the same for the day hours.

The nice thing about a trail cam is, if you have an area on a farm, the area has hard ground and you cannot work out what walks around because of hard ground you cant see spoor or tracks, THEN this trail cam will answer all your questions! As long as it is set correctly!

You cannot just put a camera at a spot and expect photos – NO! ANGLE – DISTANCE – HEIGHT are the keys to successful camera results.









Once you master the angle, distance, height and mounting a new world will open up to you, a trail camera can tell you so much about your farm!



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