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Moultrie Photos


Here are a few pics both close up and of actual footage of the cameras performance and what it can do.

This is a photo of me from a video taken from the Moultrie and a still picture, the one with me in a corner is 53m away I am under the tree on the right. In this photo I was moving my arm, NOT my entire body, and it picked up the movement.



Look at this below photo carefully, as you can see I have just come into the cameras field of view and it took this photo, as fast as lightning, I am not even properly in the film clip yet, and I still have to walk across the parking lot. I have my camera set to take 3 pictures normally in real life so if this was in the Karoo I would get the animal a few times in front of my camera. This camera is very quick on a trigger and you don’t lose much time if an animal was moving fast across your field of view. This was 12 m away from the camera; See the quality of photo is great also. I set my camera on ENHANCE for a better quality photo.

See this link for how to set and bait with a trail cam on my website;

Remember that placement and angle are crucial, in other words of you are wanting to monitor a dust / sand road on your farm, don’t place the camera facing the road from left to right, rather angle it at 45 degrees, this will give you more time to photograph a moving animal.


Remember to clear your cameras memory after each group of pictures you take and also to refresh camera also, as it can possibly confuse camera and it wont take more pictures( past experience).


Also, try to give it more on a parallel angle rather than a 45 degree one to the ground, by giving it a more parallel angle will capture more animals on film, place the camera about 2 foot from the ground or a tiny bit more, not lower!


 Remember this, the sun! Place the camera so that if the sun comes out you will have the sun towards the back of your camera, then you won’t be blinded by the sun at all, this is a simple thing, BUT many people make that mistake.


Batteries are not a problem, I used my camera for 4 days running, after that it was shown on the reader at 74% battery power still left, so it is very light on fuel. But the video will suck more battery power than when you just take photos.

Here is a photo taken at 15m with the Infra Red flash, not a white flash only INFRA RED , nobody nor animals can see the flash at


night .



Remember, that if you run video it is more information friendly to the hunter, because – if you know predators are more active at night, set it to take videos at night, then if you catch jackals on film you can observe a jackals body language, he will tell you if others are nearby or if he is just a traveller etc, by observing him will give you lots of info, EXAMPLE, if he stops turns, looks around etc, that’s a tip others are also around. BUT if you take photos it will not give you the same feedback easily.


Put the camera on LOW RESOLUTION, this will give you far more space on the memory card so you can get a few videos in a night.




PLACE TWO TRAIL CAMS, one to take pictures and the other to do video. Place them at two different angles, (both with the sun behind the cameras)


Here are three photos I took at various distances, the longest range is 53m, you wont need a photo this far, most applications are 20m max to monitor travel routes.

Here are close ups of the camera for interest sake.


White part is the movement sensor, the centre is the camera lens with night and day sensors and the top a Infra red glowing panel to show you its taking at night.

Inside door, is the ( top) the display to view photos, with selectors for tuning the camera near the bottom.


MOULTRIE 160 SPYCAM 6 Mega Pixels
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